My Voyage Log

January 3, 2011

By Stacy Brody

The view from the bridge before breakfast was beautiful. The sun made a showing today and there was blue sky. The water was calm, spotted with some spectacular icebergs. John pointed out one that looked like a ship; it even had passenger penguins. John gave a morning wake-up call (which was only partly effective) and told us all it would be a “cracker” of a day. A cracker? I really do not think that is specific enough. A saltine day, I imagine, is much different from a graham cracker day. But, what do I know, I am an American on an Aussie boat?

We had breakfast at 6:30 AM. Some people were more chipper than others. Some people weren’t even awake.

We made our way to Cuverville Island, home to one of the largest gentoo gatherings in Antarctica, and dropped anchor soon after breakfast. Zodiacs left the boat at around 7:20 AM and cruised around the icebergs for a bit. By now, it seemed, most of us were jaded. The first zodiac cruise, everyone had their cameras out, snapping pictures. Oh, look at that hunk of ice. Today, only 3 out of the 13 passengers in Keith’s zodiac took any photographs of the icebergs. However, the penguins were still endearing (and we have started to become indifferent to the smell of rookeries). We were lucky to have beautiful weather, so warm that many gentoos were lying on their stomachs on the snow with the feet outstretched, “chilling out,” literally.

Most of us spread out along the beach, but some of the more adventurous passengers trekked up the hill for a better view. The kayakers, I am told, had a wonderful paddle. The waters were calm. We watched the penguins come in and out of the water and around the island. They have made little roads in the snow. I wonder what penguin street signs would look like. And do they have speed limits? (I also believe that penguins have severe identity issues: they look like birds, swim like fish, wag their tails like dogs, and waddle like my aunt and grandmother (don’t tell them I said that)). We noticed a penguin with an injured foot – he had a great deal of difficulty getting around. How do you have highways and no hospital? Such poor infrastructure.

From the beach, we saw a leopard seal enjoying second breakfast. It caught a penguin and proceeded to toss it about. Didn’t your mother ever tell you to never play with your food? A skua circled overhead, looking for pieces the seal missed, perhaps, but thought better of interrupting a top predator at mealtime.

A chinstrap penguin popped his head up out of the water but never came ashore. This is a shame – all colonies need one lone chinstrap stirring up trouble.

Some skuas flew around the island, looking for unguarded chicks and eggs. Instead, they found an MSU student. A piece of advice: do not wear white hats; your head may be mistaken for an egg.

While we were on Cuverville, there were avalanches on nearby mountains. Though we could not see them, we heard the loud, thunderous sounds to the east.

The kayakers did see some avalanches. Leonie also found an isopod, Glyptonotus antarctica.

Not long after we all returned to Polar Pioneer, it was time for the polar plunge. Those of us not diving were surely thinking, what are these idiots doing?, and those of us diving (well, as least me) were thinking am I an idiot doing this? We had 25 plungers, nearly a record we were told. Congratulations to everyone who dove, and thank you to all the staff members who helped the crazy divers (and to whoever the genius was that put a sauna in the ship).

After the plunge, many passengers gathered in the bridge of the ship. There were a number of whale sightings.

The chefs amazed us once again with lunch. Most people can’t cook that well on dry land and here the kitchen brings out masterpiece after masterpiece. Burgers (or veggie burgers) and oven fries. (Homage to the Americans on board, perhaps?) Compliments to the chefs, and the lovely ladies in the galley.

After lunch, the skies looked a little grayer, but we couldn’t have perfect weather all day, could we? The kayakers prepared for their last paddle and we all bundled up for the last zodiac cruise. We cruised around the Melchior Islands, 16 small islands between Anvers and Brabant. The Argentineans have a station on one of the islands. John promised seals, but for the first part of the cruise, all we saw were kelp gulls. I was about to ask for my money back when we spotted one Weddell and one crabeater seal (and, of course, a chinstrap penguin). Closer to the station, we saw a fur seal. Maggie anchored the zodiac and we did a little walk-around on the rocks. We got a little closer to the fur seal, but I was more interested in watching the little krill in the tidal pools. Such small creatures help hold up the Antarctic food chain. Amazing. Towards the end, it got a bit windy; the kayakers surely noticed this much more than I did. In fact, on the way back to ship, they used the wind to their advantage, turning their paddles into sails. (I thought they were just posing for a photograph.) By 4 PM, we were all back on the ship, the anchor was pulled up, and the Polar Pioneer set off on its way back to Ushuaia. 

A number of people gathered in the bar for light conversation and drinks before dinner. Attendance at dinner was lighter than usual as we started encountering rougher seas.

Now, I know there are a number of couples on this boat. Before I get married (if I find someone good enough for me, that is), we are going to cruise to Antarctica. If we last 10 days sharing small cabin, the rough seas of the Drake Passage, and not being able to escape each other, then it’s true love. (Of course, after the trip, we may not have enough money for a wedding, which may be an obstacle to consider.)